8 tricks up your auto dealer’s sleeve

Auto dealers have lots of ways to make the most off of every sale.

Everything from interest rate markups and dealer add-ons to longer and longer loans can drive up the cost of buying a fresh car or truck.

If you’re not careful, you can wind up paying more to buy and finance a fresh car or truck than you indeed need to.

That’s a total waste of money for anyone attempting to build financial security for themselves and their families.

Look out for these eight well-known tricks when you visit the showroom.

Dealer trick 1. Preying on your lack of information.

There’s nothing a salesperson loves more than a clueless car shopper.

You can’t negotiate a fair price for a vehicle when you don’t know what that price should be.

Before taking off for the dealership, go to Edmunds.com and Kelley Blue Book to find the average transaction price for the car or truck you want to buy.

Or add the Edmunds or Kelley app to your smartphone and punch in the model, trim level, equipment packages and other options listed on the window sticker for any car on the lot.

Either way, you’ll know what car buyers are actually paying for the rail you’re considering, and it’s usually hundreds, and often thousands, of dollars less than the suggested retail value posted on the window.

You want to be the brainy shopper who pays a little less than the average transaction price.

Dealer trick Two. Making it all about the monthly payment.

Salespeople often ask potential buyers what’s the fattest monthly payment they can afford.

With that number in arm, they’ll calculate the most you can possibly spend and still hit that monthly payment by dragging out the loan for as long as possible.

Then you’ll be shown cars and trucks in that price range, which is often higher than what you desired to spend, while you’re reassured that a better rail is well within your budget.

Let’s say you came in to buy a compact sedan that cost about $20,000 but let slip that you could afford a payment of $450 a month.

The salesperson instantaneously recognizes that a 60- or 72-month loan would permit you to buy a $25,000 midsize sedan while keeping your payment at about $450 a month — and that is what he or she will attempt to sell you.

The thicker sticker price, and longer loan, both mean more money for the dealership.

Use the 20/Four/Ten rule to see what you can indeed afford.

It says you should put down at least 20% on a vehicle, finance it for no more than four years and not spend more than 10% of your monthly income on your auto expenses, including your note, maintenance and insurance.

Here’s how to put that rule to use before you go car shopping and come up with a purchase price that won’t drain your checking account every month — and then stick to it.

Dealer trick Trio. Imposing finance charge markups.

You’ve picked the car you want to buy, and now the finance manager is searching his computer for the best deal on a loan.

But the dealership is not required to tell you the cheapest loan you’ve qualified for and can legally pad the interest rate with a duo percentage points for themselves.

Let’s say the bank or finance company says you’re eligible for a 5% loan, but the finance manager tells you 7%.

On a $22,000 five-year loan, that extra 2% will add an extra $1,277 to your payments.

The lender is in cahoots with the dealer. It collects the extra money, keeps half for itself and sends the other half back to the dealer.

While this is fairly legal, the U.S. Justice Department and the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau have been investigating whether dealers and lenders are prone to discriminate against women and minorities by adding markups to their loans more often.

Dealer trick Four. Making deceptive payoff promises.

Let’s say you’re looking to buy a fresh car but still have a balance on your current car loan.

To close the deal, a salesperson will often promise: “We’ll pay off your loan no matter how much you owe.”

Most dealers will make up for that loss by charging more for your fresh rail, suggesting less on your trade-in and imposing a finance charge markup.

But unscrupulous showrooms pay off your old loan, just as they promised, then secretly add that amount to your fresh loan.

To get away with that, they’re counting on you to concentrate on the monthly payment and overlook the total amount you’re financing.

Primarily you might have been told that your monthly payment would be around $400, which is what it would be if you financed $20,000 over sixty months at 6%.

When you sit down to sign the papers, the finance manager points to the monthly payment line and, sure enough, it’s $397.

What you don’t see is that the dealer added that $Four,000 payoff to the balance on your loan and financed that $24,000 over 72 months, committing you to pay on that car for an extra year.

Dealer trick Five. Pushing you to lease.

Some salespeople may steer you to leasing because it may get you a fresh vehicle at less than half the monthly payment it would cost to buy.

The problem is, you’ll still be making years of monthly payments — at the end of which you will own nothing.

If you need to lease a car to “afford” it, you very likely can’t afford it in the very first place.

Dealer trick 6. Telling the deal is only good now.

Salespeople love to pressure buyers for quick sales with things like “the deal is only good today.”

It’s a common tactic to prevent you from checking other dealerships or having 2nd thoughts. They’re worried if you leave the lot, you won’t come back.

Chances are you’ll get the same deal if you comeback.

The one exception would be around the end of the month when incentives provided by the car companies — rebates and discount loans — often expire.

Click here to find all of the current automaker incentives and exactly how long they last.

You don’t want to make impulse decisions or be pressured on such a big purchase anyway.

Don’t be panicked to sleep on it.

Dealer trick 7. Trotting out the old bait-and-switch.

You see an ad for a good price on a car you’ve been considering.

Then you get to the showroom and find that’s only for a stripped-down model, or trim level in auto lingo, which no one ever buys.

The salesperson is sympathetic. When was the last time you spotted a car with crank windows and no air-conditioning?

Over the next hour, he or she shows you better-equipped versions. By the time you eventually see the car you thought the ad was touting, you’re paying $Four,000 more.

So disregard the prices you see in ads.

Most dealers now have their inventories on their websites, permitting you to find the fully tooled model you’re indeed interested in buying before leaving home.

Take those VINs (vehicle identification numbers) or stock numbers with you to the showroom.

Not only will you have a more realistic idea of how much the car you want truly costs, it shows the salesperson you did some homework.

Dealer trick 8. Selling worthless or overpriced dealer add-ons.

Dealers boost their profits by selling all sorts of accessories, from roof racks to premium sound systems.

Take a careful look at the cost. You can usually get the same thing for half price or less at electronics or auto parts stores.

Be especially alert for surprise add-ons salespeople attempt to slip in as you’re wrapping up the deal.

VIN-etching is the latest add-on to avoid. Also, be on the lookout for paint protection, fabric protection, rust-proofing and car alarms.

So how much mark-up do you think dealers have on a MRSP of 60K vehicle? I don’t have an IT dude to help me.

10% on most cars. $40000 truck would have cost the dealer about $36000.

I just had to reaction your question. Cash means that you are a very qualified buyer and can pay for the car. The leverage it gives you with the dealer is that you can buy right now! Ay dealer mworht his salt will make some kind of concession. There is a car deal if an agreement is reached. Many buyers believe paying cash on the spot entitles them them to astronomical discounts. It doesn’t. Whether you finance, pay cash on the spot or bring a check from the credit union, it all hits the dealers bank at the same time.

Regarding the price a dealer will accept ,make an suggest, but don’t assume the mark up is astronmically high.

Question, if I owe 31k and want to pay cash for a veh at 16-20k will the dealer pay off my trade? I do not have neg eq. My truck is worth 37-38k but I just want them pay off so i can buy an cheap get around veh for work as I have another car for weekends any help will help thanks

Good advice Andrew.

I eyed a sweet car at this advertised dealership. long story brief, after making a deposit of around four grand, the general manager said that i needed to pay another $1,000 if not i couldnt have the car. This was after i was there for hours and had made a deal with both the sales associate and the manager.

oh man. This is so epic! I most likely wont ever get a response, but what on earth were you able to dig up on them.

I feel like regardless, if you go into a situation where you have negative equity, the dealer isn’t going to arch over rearwards for the average consumer to accommodate them you know?

I concur, if you have negative equity then you no longer have any power.

Thus I’ve been advised by dealership owners that when you have a vehicle in which you owe more than its worth, never trade it in, sell it outright for what you can and just write the check to the finance company for the balance.

Now if you’re not worried about this fake system of credit worthiness is this county we have, then you’d get the fresh car very first and just have the finance company take the other one back as a repo.

However unless your willing to live the Dave Ramsey lifestyle of having no credit score for the remainder of your life, ID caution against the latter tactic.

You will usually get more if you sell rather than trade. However, the difference can lightly be offset by the tax advantage from trading. In most states you do not pay sales tax on the value of the trade.

For example, you may sell for $13,000. You might trade for $12,000. A $1,000 difference. However, you do not pay sales tax if you trade. At a 6% tax, that is a $720 savings. Therefore the difference is only $280. Is $280 worth the effort?

It truly makes no difference if you sell and pay off or trade. Other than the difference in what you get by selling or trading. For example, if you owe $15,000 and you sell for $13,000, you will need to pay the $Two,000 difference. If you trade for $13000 you also need to pay the difference of $Two,000.

Negative equity does not influence your power. It may limit your options but it does not influence your power.

You, the buyer still control the deal. You can still walk away. Permitting a dealer to control the process always results in a bad deal. Sales people always think they control the negotiation. They do only if the buyer lets them. Wise buyers always control the process.

if you sell a car someone they pay the sales tax. the have to pay it at the tax office when they get their tag. it is unlawful to absorb sales tax

You do not understand.

If you buy a $30,000, the sales tax is six percent, the amount of sales tax is $1,800.

If you trade and get $15,000, th sales tax is computed on $15,000 ($30,000 – $15,000). The amount of sales tax is $900.

The difference of $900. ($1,800 – $900) is the sales tax advantage of trading.

You still lost, it’s a Hyundai

i bought a car on monday for four hundred thirty a month for seventy two months, now the bank says that they cant do that deal, they want me to pay five hundred seventy nine for seventy two months with 7% interest, they send a letter after six days of financing the car, what can i do? i already signed the original payment with the dealer.

Hi, I recently traded in my mini van, i owed 19k on it. I traded it in for a brand fresh subaru legacy for 25k. We paid the negative equity and a down payment on top of that 6k total. A month and a half later, subaru calls me and tells me I owe them two hundred ten because the payoff was more than expected. I refused to pay anything and now they are menacing to take me to court. Are they permitted to charge me more money?

But there is more money dealers make besides the invoice. Why would a dealer sell a car to an affiliate member at 1% below invoice for example. There is usually a 5-7% profit holdback just at invoice pricing. In addition to that there are dealer incentive to sell certain cars. Then the dealer receives a price per unit sold and bonus money for meeting quota. So even below invoice the dealer is making money. If a car depreciates 20% leaving the lot how much of that is dealer profit.

My FICO is 800+++, been looking for an Automobile, and I still feel that pipe going deep into my azz. The sad fact is somebody is getting all the bucks, I don’t think it’s the Salesman, nor the Secretary, I believe the Manager and Corporate gets it all. The employees get a kick in the butt. I was armed with KBB, Black Book and Consumer Reports, so they did not like me. Please, all you Peeps, read up, be ready, it is MONEY. Reminisce, they do not care whether you make your House Payments, feed your Children, or pay your children’s or your Medical Bills. At least be Ready. They hate that, so you must Make your Game Plan and stick to it. Consumer Reports this month lists the best cars to make it to 200,000 miles. Honda Accord followed by Toyota and only one Ford in the top Ten, an F150. Some very good Used Cars are in Consumer Reports this month and last month four and Five/16. Homework Matters. SEMPER FI AMERICA. You work hard, You spend Softly!! Be Wise for your Family and Yourself!!

I got same deal from my used car dlr l, BUT I called CU and confirmed If i sign the contract at 1.9 THEY must accept it once dealer made the contract..but when i went to inquire on closing date dealer rudely says i don’t qualify, he never ran my credit..WTF?? HIS responsibility. I said YOU suggested, you gave a spoken contract and several models with this 1.9 financing are on paper, so YOU go back to CU and get me that rate, he DID. because I can walk. I am putting 42% DOWN. bird in mitt, well qualified even however I DO lead the Dave Ramsey “invisible” credit score life..banks want to shill me to Five.5% for having NO debt, own my home clear, cars too, pay off Biz CC monthly..just POOR treatment to debt free people. My treatment may be to get the price down as far as I can, agree to sixty months ( he’s drooling thinking he told me “sure pay it off sooner if you want” he still makes MOST of the interest, I lose hundreds! but a thirty six mo loan is best for me. BUT at absolute lowest everything I just agree to the final price taxes and all, then pull

out my checkbook and pay cash. done.

Andrew, if your willing to assist me with a few questions I’d love to ask you. You could willingly email me at [email protected]. It’s in regards to an f150 platinum purchase I’m attempting to make at a local ford dealership. (Hopefully not yours)

Im pretty sure that when you trade in a car the dealer is providing you the

“cash” to put down on the car your financing. So I’m pretty sure that if your son had $3000 cash to put down on a car vs the dealer providing him $3000 for a trade in on his previous car, all the bank would care about is the $3000. Albeit i have no practice in finances and i could be entirely wrong. But i can assure you he will not get in trouble lol abandon being so paranoid.

Do you truly desire a genuine loan from a reliable lender then you don’t have to look elsewhere or think of a way out anymore for [email protected] is the right choice to make because i recently got my loan from them.

I wonder if I used a Latino name if I could get a lil bit sweeter deal? Should I attempt Senjor Pepe.

Your misinformed “dealer trick Four” is wrong.

Yes, they do add your payoff back in, however, they gave you money off of your purchase for the value of your trade, pretty much what the dealer can buy one in similar condition for.

For example, if you are buying a car for $20000, and they give you $5000 for your trade, but you owe $10000, you would be responsible to pay back $25000 (not including your taxes and fees). If you owed nothing, that number would drop to 20k.

The way you explain that, that 25k would be 30k.

What your trade is worth andwhat you owe on it can very often be two different numbers.

Im looking to finance a two thousand sixteen Nissan Rogue S

1) i presently am in a two thousand fourteen Toyota Camry LE lease, with two months left

Two) i got a True-Car quote on the car thats much less than the MSRP (22,767)

Three) i have more than 20% down payment ( $6k)

Four) most very likely will go with Credit Union Financing and not Dealership Financing.( never done this before, so don’t know procedure)

1) Can/should i negotiate the purchase price?

Two) If i wait til end of lease, the only extra fee i would have to pay is the disposition fee to Toyota, correct?

Because you owe 17k on the vehicle, not zero? He didn’t add 17k to the 59k price, he added it to your trade difference. You got 13k for your trade.

Simply put, it looks like some of the incentive is based on financing with Mazda Finance. Manufacturers do it all of the time. To figure out the best way to go, simply look at which payment is lower, assuming the term is the same. If say, your credit union payment is $375 and Mazda is $365, Mazda is the way to go.

Anytime you save money off the financed amount up front vs. over the life of the loan, it’s a better deal, since very few people these days keep a car for that long.

How about if a dealer keeps selling my loan to a finance company then not providing title and buying loan back? This has happened three times now and my principal is just about the same as when I very first purchased the car six months ago.

We’re looking at a car now – They have listed $16,000 for a two thousand fourteen Camry. What happened is the car we were interested in wasn’t there. It was being shipped to the store. It’s supposed to get here tomorrow, I believe. So they said they would cut us a deal and give us the same price as the two thousand fourteen for the two thousand fifteen Camry that they had right there. We test drove it and all was well. What he was telling as the “same price” was the monthly payment, but they were going to tack on an extra year. They also said they would pay for the TT&L, but I’m relatively sure they were just going to tack it on to the end of the payment. But anyway, my spouse I said thank you and walked out.

My credit is pretty good. I’m not indeed worried about getting a lower interest rate. I’ve even been pre-approved through the credit union for Two.99% interest rate. However, my question is this – do you think it’s unreasonable to ask them for the TT&L in the price of the car? I’ve also got a $250 coupon through their website. I just want to make sure I’m not being unreasonable. I just figure if they were willing to give it to me for the two thousand fifteen Camry, why wouldn’t they for the two thousand fourteen Camry? Also, when should I tell them I’ve been pre-approved? When they demonstrate me their finances? I know once I tell them, they’re not truly going to negotiate the prices, much less the TT&L.

I fully agree! I work in a Ford F&I office in Canada and I would never work here if it meant being a sleeze ball to maximize profits. I stiffly believe that if my clients can trust me that that will take me much further in my career and keep my consious clear! I would rather be someone that people can trust. There are many reasons we suggest extended warranty, maintenance, family and credit protection, ect. and that is for protection. These products have value and they help protect you. Now that is not to say every single one benefits every single person as everyone has different needs and its my job to display them the features and benefits and for my clients to determine if it does or not.

Another thing!! You must realize that we are under LEGAL OBLIGATION to present these products. If I do not and the client is in a situation that they would need the benefits of a product we suggested and it is found that I did not suggest it to them that I can be sued! For an example Life/ Family protection insurance- Customer was not offered- customer passes away- wifey stuck with vehicle- wifey now losing vehicle- found out there was a protection that could have prevented this- she can sue me- I will lose lawsuit.

People make F&I out to be the enemy.. now I get it there are F&I managers that will attempt to take you for every penny they can but that is not all F&I and that is why it is enormously significant that you are educated and ask your questions. Don’t permit yourself to be taken advantage of but don’t shut out the Finance Office in fear of being screwed over.. hear us out.. research.. ask questions.. read fine print. ask about fine print. We are (supposed to be) here to help you and guide you through to the process.. not all of us here are here to take all your money. Yes we are here to make money.. that is no secret.. but isn’t that the job of any business. I do need to make my company money as well as make a paycheck myself but that doesn’t mean I am tearing you off.. As a single mother I care very much about your financial fights, I care that you need to feed your family, I care about you. This is why I suggest you these things.. keep that in mind.

Well I happen to know of many scams they do. Research people what thy call the pit man (sales people manager. Believe nothing they say and research their many scams and do NOT sign anything until you take it all home and read it. Been there with many others and many commit fraud everyday and it is time to put a stop to it and I intend to.

Actually before this election the aspect of a business to make money was demonized and if Clinton would have won very likely outlawed.

While I agree profit is required to operate, anything over 3% is excess.

In the number one scam state in the USA, Florida. We routinely have dealerships fresh and used running 6-12% .

The state attorney’s in most of the counties have investigated dealerships via the state for this tactic.

So this is one of the main reasons all dealerships get this bad rep.

If they want to make it plain demonstrate the consumer every lump of proprietary information on the car.

Invoice, kickbacks, incentives, end of year quantity sales perks, floor plan gained interest, sponsorship kickbacks, etc..

If you as the dealer pay $25,000 for a car in June by next June given the fact your dealership very likely sells 200+ vehicles a month, itemize all your stuff as listed above for the entire year on every vehicle sold, that one $25,000 car now cost you a year later $Nineteen,000. So in reality you can sell it for $21,000 and still make slew of money.

The excess is because your dealership is driven to make as much profit as possible without being sanctioned by a government figure.

If you can honestly deny then your eagerness to make a living has outweighed the good of humanity.

The rebates are 13k

He providing you 13k for your trade.

59k minus 13k is 46k

Ttl takes it back to 49.5k

The rebate takes it down to 48.5k

You have 4k in negative equity.

Total out the door is $52,500

You wrote: “but since their still in business..” Did you go to grade school in US? HOW did you not learn the basics?

Rather than reading the entire text, you determine to concentrate on a spelling mistake.

Deplorable English again:

“that’s why there called loss leaders”

Is this an English class?

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Articles like this are the reason customers come into a dealership looking for a bad practice. Working at a dealership, we are there to provide a service to you as a customer. 400% markup in clothing, 2-300% markup in furniture, you don’t go to a clothing store looking to negotiate or argue with someone. we are fortunate if we make a 1-2% profit on a 30,000$ vehicle! The point is, we are performing a service, and profit is NOT a dirty word. A real dealership will be upfront with you, and take care of you. Instead of researching all the shit you see above, research the car and the dealership Very first before you go walking in their door.

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According to Consumer Reports, the average vehicle depreciates 49% in the very first three years, or 16.33% per year, and has less than 40,000 miles on it. Most vehicles today are good for around 200,000 miles. You could have bought a three year old truck for half as much and driven it for another 160,000 miles. What’s the most expensive liquid? Printer ink. What’s the most expensive fragrance? The fresh car smell.

With so many fresh vehicles leased with low payments over the past three years since the automotive industry had access to cheap QE money, they’re being flooded with lease turn-ins because the values are below the residual value in the lease. The over-supply of good used cars is driving prices lower.

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I cancled a MPP plan and I am getting that refund, but i asked the car dealer about the sales tax I had to pay for it like if I were going to get it back he said yeah, but as I called the MPP place they told me it was only the for the protection not the plan. is there anyway I can make them give me the money back that I paid on taxes he technically lied to me. On the tax form for the sales tax/license plates they put the wrong sales taxes, can I have them redo my paper work in anyway?

Autobarn Subaru Countryside il , got me real good. The finance manager told me the Vin-etching was free, I signed, went through my paperwork the same night, I was charged $379 I warn all do not do business with this company, the possessor son even promotes it, after complaining, he called me, said he would refund my money, and never did. I have filed complaints and thinking about suing.

Sorry but this article is ridiculously unrealistic/misinformative in many ways. Here’s why:

1) Dealers prey on misinformed buyers by marking up their cars

– This may have been true before the age of the internet. Nowadays, dealers are compelled to price their cars correctly according to market value because most buyers shop online before visiting dealers. Unless the car is priced correctly, dealers won’t get any foot traffic.

Two) Focusing on the monthly payment

– While it is true that focusing on the monthly payment is a tactic, it’s not an unjustified one. If everyone had to pay a phat lump sum for a car, the streets would be empty. People can only afford what they can afford. And sadly most people can slightly afford a $300-500 car payment. Salespeople have to land you on the right cars in order to make the transaction feasible. Only an idiot salesman would display a customer a 30K car when they can only afford $300 a month. Also, the idea that the more expensive a car is, the more profit there is for the dealer is false in most cases. There is only so much profit margin in cars, even if there is a difference of 20-60K in price. If you’re selling Lambos or Ferraris, that’s a different story. Also, the so called 20/Four/Ten rule is not realistic. The majority of buyers can’t afford the payments of a four year loan. They have to go six years to get the payment down. Most people are making 4-5K a month. After tax, it’s more like 3K. These buyers have to be at a $300-400 payment to feel convenient. Unless you want to drive a 12K Fiat, you have to extend your loan to get to a manageable monthly payment.

Trio). Imposing finance charge markups

– This is America. Businesses are entitled to make a profit

– Most buyers are underwater on their trade ins. It all leads back to the fact that most people make 4-5K a month and can’t put a big down payment on their car and have a long term loan. When they trade the car in, they are often rolling a little negative equity into their fresh loan. This is just the fact of car buying/selling. A car is not an appreciating asset. It is an investment into bettering your life, at a cost. EVERYONE loses money on their individual cars, unless you’re making/selling them. Even then, you could lose a lot of money. Which leads into this .

Five). Leasing is a bad idea

– This is the most laughable contention of this post. Leasing is actually the best option of car buying in today’s market, provided that you don’t drive a lot. Most people are limited to a fifteen mile radius from where they live, being that they work close to home. Unless you drive a ton, leasing is the way to go. The author of the post even said it himself, the payment is generally LOWER than on a long-term loan on a purchase. Why wouldn’t you want a lower payment? And the idea that you “own nothing” at the end of your lease is also laughable. Considering that most people that purchase their car on a long-term loan don’t even get the title to their car until they make the last payment, and they might also end up selling/totaling/trading in their car before the end of the loan is up, theoretically most buyers don’t ever own their cars that are on a purchase. Six years is a long, long time to own one car. Which is the term that most people get. When you lease, you get the car in the best years of its life, you get a solid warranty via the duration of the lease, you get to leap in and out of brand fresh cars every 3-4 years, and you never roll a ton negative equity into a fresh loan (unless you’re an idiot that attempts to get out of their lease too early). On top of that, if you truly love your lease, you can buy it during or at the end of the leasing term. That’s why the banks only give favorable leasing programs to people with above average credit. It’s a privilege to be able to lease. It’s a much more lithe option than a long term purchase loan where you’ll almost always end up underwater on your car unless you put a big down payment on the car when you buy it.

I could keep going but this article is unfairly smearing car dealers . people who provide a crucial service and help the world go around. There is not enough respect for dealerships and banks. Without banks taking fat risks on subprime or even prime buyers to get people on the road, the roads would be empty. Without the dealers putting up with the frustration of customers that want to negotiate, the roads would be empty. Selling cars is one of the most difficult/competitive businesses to succeed in. Dealerships are entitled to make a profit and make a living, just like every other business that provides an in request service.

Hi, I am Emerald Cole and I would like to talk about something that has been of fine help to me, my family and my company. Few months ago my company suffered a superb loss that i couldn’t help it, I was at the edge of loosing my house and my company due to bad credit and unpaid loans. I became so desperate that i didn’t know what to do to save the situation, I couldn’t get a loan from banks and other financial institution due to my bad credit. Then i set out to Seek funds online, where I got scammed of $6,300 by two different lenders. Until I read about Anz Jackson Plc. where i got a loan with no stress. I now have my company back in production more than ever and my credit lodge. You can as well reach them at: [email protected] or call/ text: +18437769340, for more Information. All thanks to God almighty and the management of Anz Jackson Plc for making this come through. I am sharing this practice so that everyone who are in need can be a part of it.

Hi, I am Emerald Cole and I would like to talk about something that has been of superb help to me, my family and my company. Few months ago my company suffered a good loss that i couldn’t help it, I was at the edge of loosing my house and my company due to bad credit and unpaid loans. I became so desperate that i didn’t know what to do to save the situation, I couldn’t get a loan from banks and other financial institution due to my bad credit. Then i set out to Seek funds online, where I got scammed of $6,300 by two different lenders. Until I read about Anz Jackson Plc. where i got a loan with no stress. I now have my company back in production more than ever and my credit lodge. You can as well reach them at: [email protected] or call/ text: +18437769340, for more Information. All thanks to God almighty and the management of Anz Jackson Plc for making this come through. I am sharing this practice so that everyone who are in need can be a part of it../

Car dealers are all crooks, period. They say one thing to you, and then pull off a switcheroo when you aren’t paying attention. They spout off all kinds of numbers, purposely confusing you. You end up paying twice as much for the car, with your trade in at the end. Don’t believe anyone who says otherwise!

Depending on the state you don’t get charged tax if it is fresh car to fresh car.

I come in the dealership ready and ready. And say this is what I am paying. And I beg them to say yes or now so that i can stir on and not waste time. Do yo think you get an response !?

They know from the beginning that they will never match that price. they still take me back and forward and insist on a million thing and waste two or three hours and want to bring the car to the front and want me to test drive it.

And I insist that I do not want to see the car nor test drive it. That, I believe them, that it exists. At the end the dealer simply get back by telling that they cannot match that price (after they know that i have done my homework and that i am a number man).

Which makes me wonder he could have saved us both three hours and answered my initial questions in three minutes. One dealer even brought out the four square paper – even with me telling i do not have a trade in nor want to put money down in (i.e. both squares were zero !!).

In the past air travel ticket purchase was done at your local travel offices spread across the nation. The internet phased out that profession and now people buy airline tickets online.

I can see the “car sales by dealers” process going away also. It is a matter of time. These dealership will be maintenance and repair shops. Which by the way is I think will make them more money.

And only then car shopping will be a positive practice.

Good day to everybody reading this, My name is Alice Monroe, from San Diego United State. I want to thank Mr Logan Bryan who helped me to get a loan. For the past three months, I have been searching for a loan to lodge my debts, everyone I met scammed and took my money until I ultimately met Mr Logan Bryan. He was able to give me a loan of $55,000 US Dollars. He can also help you. He has also helped some other colleagues of mine. If you need any financial help, graciously contact his company through email: [email protected] I believe he can help you. Contact him to get help just as he helped me. He doesn’t know that I am doing this by spreading his goodwill towards me but I feel I should share this with you all to free yourself from scammers, please beware of impersonators and contact the right loan company. below are his words of encouragement to those seeking for a legit and fair loan lender.

I got approved for a car loan. The dealership attempted to pull the old buy rate markup AND bait & switch. How can I find out what bank approved me? I want to take the approval to another dealership. I have credit monitoring so I have the two banks that the request for the loan approval was sent to. Do I have the right to call and ask?

Dealer originally suggested me a Four.90% Interest Rate (the kiosk in their lobby advertised a 0% Rate, but of course the fine print was a Credit Score of seven hundred forty or better) and $6,600 for a trade-in. The Blue Book said $7,400 to $8,500, and my car only has Eighteen,500 miles on it, but is seven years old. Anyhow the Dealer calls me the next day and said he’ll up the Trade-in to $7,000 and give a 1.9% Interest Rate. Lesson learned: Walk out after the very first meeting, because its a game of “Who blinks very first”, and gladfully the Dealer did.

8 tricks up the sleeves of auto dealers

8 tricks up your auto dealer’s sleeve

Auto dealers have lots of ways to make the most off of every sale.

Everything from interest rate markups and dealer add-ons to longer and longer loans can drive up the cost of buying a fresh car or truck.

If you’re not careful, you can wind up paying more to buy and finance a fresh car or truck than you truly need to.

That’s a total waste of money for anyone attempting to build financial security for themselves and their families.

Look out for these eight well-known tricks when you visit the showroom.

Dealer trick 1. Preying on your lack of information.

There’s nothing a salesperson loves more than a clueless car shopper.

You can’t negotiate a fair price for a vehicle when you don’t know what that price should be.

Before taking off for the dealership, go to Edmunds.com and Kelley Blue Book to find the average transaction price for the car or truck you want to buy.

Or add the Edmunds or Kelley app to your smartphone and punch in the model, trim level, equipment packages and other options listed on the window sticker for any car on the lot.

You want to be the wise shopper who pays a little less than the average transaction price.

Dealer trick Two. Making it all about the monthly payment.

Salespeople often ask potential buyers what’s the thickest monthly payment they can afford.

With that number in forearm, they’ll calculate the most you can possibly spend and still hit that monthly payment by dragging out the loan for as long as possible.

Then you’ll be shown cars and trucks in that price range, which is often higher than what you dreamed to spend, while you’re reassured that a better rail is well within your budget.

Let’s say you came in to buy a compact sedan that cost about $20,000 but let slip that you could afford a payment of $450 a month.

The thicker sticker price, and longer loan, both mean more money for the dealership.

Use the 20/Four/Ten rule to see what you can truly afford.

Here’s how to put that rule to use before you go car shopping and come up with a purchase price that won’t drain your checking account every month — and then stick to it.

Dealer trick Three. Imposing finance charge markups.

You’ve picked the car you want to buy, and now the finance manager is searching his computer for the best deal on a loan.

But the dealership is not required to tell you the cheapest loan you’ve qualified for and can legally pad the interest rate with a duo percentage points for themselves.

Let’s say the bank or finance company says you’re eligible for a 5% loan, but the finance manager tells you 7%.

On a $22,000 five-year loan, that extra 2% will add an extra $1,277 to your payments.

The lender is in cahoots with the dealer. It collects the extra money, keeps half for itself and sends the other half back to the dealer.

Dealer trick Four. Making deceptive payoff promises.

Let’s say you’re looking to buy a fresh car but still have a balance on your current car loan.

To close the deal, a salesperson will often promise: “We’ll pay off your loan no matter how much you owe.”

Most dealers will make up for that loss by charging more for your fresh rail, suggesting less on your trade-in and imposing a finance charge markup.

But unscrupulous showrooms pay off your old loan, just as they promised, then secretly add that amount to your fresh loan.

To get away with that, they’re counting on you to concentrate on the monthly payment and overlook the total amount you’re financing.

Originally you might have been told that your monthly payment would be around $400, which is what it would be if you financed $20,000 over sixty months at 6%.

When you sit down to sign the papers, the finance manager points to the monthly payment line and, sure enough, it’s $397.

What you don’t see is that the dealer added that $Four,000 payoff to the balance on your loan and financed that $24,000 over 72 months, committing you to pay on that car for an extra year.

Dealer trick Five. Pushing you to lease.

Some salespeople may steer you to leasing because it may get you a fresh vehicle at less than half the monthly payment it would cost to buy.

The problem is, you’ll still be making years of monthly payments — at the end of which you will own nothing.

If you need to lease a car to “afford” it, you most likely can’t afford it in the very first place.

Dealer trick 6. Telling the deal is only good now.

Salespeople love to pressure buyers for quick sales with things like “the deal is only good today.”

It’s a common tactic to prevent you from checking other dealerships or having 2nd thoughts. They’re worried if you leave the lot, you won’t come back.

Chances are you’ll get the same deal if you comeback.

The one exception would be around the end of the month when incentives provided by the car companies — rebates and discount loans — often expire.

Click here to find all of the current automaker incentives and exactly how long they last.

You don’t want to make impulse decisions or be pressured on such a big purchase anyway.

Don’t be funked to sleep on it.

Dealer trick 7. Trotting out the old bait-and-switch.

You see an ad for a superb price on a car you’ve been considering.

Then you get to the showroom and find that’s only for a stripped-down model, or trim level in auto lingo, which no one ever buys.

The salesperson is sympathetic. When was the last time you witnessed a car with crank windows and no air-conditioning?

Over the next hour, he or she shows you better-equipped versions. By the time you eventually see the car you thought the ad was touting, you’re paying $Four,000 more.

So overlook the prices you see in ads.

Most dealers now have their inventories on their websites, permitting you to find the fully tooled model you’re truly interested in buying before leaving home.

Take those VINs (vehicle identification numbers) or stock numbers with you to the showroom.

Not only will you have a more realistic idea of how much the car you want truly costs, it shows the salesperson you did some homework.

Dealer trick 8. Selling worthless or overpriced dealer add-ons.

Dealers boost their profits by selling all sorts of accessories, from roof racks to premium sound systems.

Take a careful look at the cost. You can usually get the same thing for half price or less at electronics or auto parts stores.

Be especially alert for surprise add-ons salespeople attempt to slip in as you’re wrapping up the deal.

VIN-etching is the latest add-on to avoid. Also, be on the lookout for paint protection, fabric protection, rust-proofing and car alarms.

So how much mark-up do you think dealers have on a MRSP of 60K vehicle? I don’t have an IT dude to help me.

10% on most cars. $40000 truck would have cost the dealer about $36000.

Regarding the price a dealer will accept ,make an suggest, but don’t assume the mark up is astronmically high.

Good advice Andrew.

I witnessed a sweet car at this advertised dealership. long story brief, after making a deposit of around four grand, the general manager said that i needed to pay another $1,000 if not i couldnt have the car. This was after i was there for hours and had made a deal with both the sales associate and the manager.

oh man. This is so epic! I very likely wont ever get a response, but what on earth were you able to dig up on them.

I feel like regardless, if you go into a situation where you have negative equity, the dealer isn’t going to arch over rearwards for the average consumer to accommodate them you know?

I concur, if you have negative equity then you no longer have any power.

However unless your willing to live the Dave Ramsey lifestyle of having no credit score for the remainder of your life, ID caution against the latter tactic.

It indeed makes no difference if you sell and pay off or trade. Other than the difference in what you get by selling or trading. For example, if you owe $15,000 and you sell for $13,000, you will need to pay the $Two,000 difference. If you trade for $13000 you also need to pay the difference of $Two,000.

Negative equity does not influence your power. It may limit your options but it does not influence your power.

if you sell a car someone they pay the sales tax. the have to pay it at the tax office when they get their tag. it is unlawful to absorb sales tax

You do not understand.

If you buy a $30,000, the sales tax is six percent, the amount of sales tax is $1,800.

If you trade and get $15,000, th sales tax is computed on $15,000 ($30,000 – $15,000). The amount of sales tax is $900.

The difference of $900. ($1,800 – $900) is the sales tax advantage of trading.

You still lost, it’s a Hyundai

I got same deal from my used car dlr l, BUT I called CU and confirmed If i sign the contract at 1.9 THEY must accept it once dealer made the contract..but when i went to inquire on closing date dealer rudely says i don’t qualify, he never ran my credit..WTF?? HIS responsibility. I said YOU suggested, you gave a spoken contract and several models with this 1.9 financing are on paper, so YOU go back to CU and get me that rate, he DID. because I can walk. I am putting 42% DOWN. bird in arm, well qualified even tho’ I DO lead the Dave Ramsey “invisible” credit score life..banks want to shill me to Five.5% for having NO debt, own my home clear, cars too, pay off Biz CC monthly..just POOR treatment to debt free people. My treatment may be to get the price down as far as I can, agree to sixty months ( he’s drooling thinking he told me “sure pay it off sooner if you want” he still makes MOST of the interest, I lose hundreds! but a thirty six mo loan is best for me. BUT at absolute lowest everything I just agree to the final price taxes and all, then pull

out my checkbook and pay cash. done.

Andrew, if your willing to assist me with a few questions I’d love to ask you. You could gladly email me at [email protected]. It’s in regards to an f150 platinum purchase I’m attempting to make at a local ford dealership. (Hopefully not yours)

Im pretty sure that when you trade in a car the dealer is providing you the

“cash” to put down on the car your financing. So I’m pretty sure that if your son had $3000 cash to put down on a car vs the dealer providing him $3000 for a trade in on his previous car, all the bank would care about is the $3000. Albeit i have no practice in finances and i could be downright wrong. But i can assure you he will not get in trouble lol abandon being so paranoid.

I wonder if I used a Latino name if I could get a lil bit sweeter deal? Should I attempt Senjor Pepe.

Your misinformed “dealer trick Four” is wrong.

Yes, they do add your payoff back in, however, they gave you money off of your purchase for the value of your trade, pretty much what the dealer can buy one in similar condition for.

The way you explain that, that 25k would be 30k.

What your trade is worth andwhat you owe on it can very often be two different numbers.

Im looking to finance a two thousand sixteen Nissan Rogue S

1) i presently am in a two thousand fourteen Toyota Camry LE lease, with two months left

Two) i got a True-Car quote on the car thats much less than the MSRP (22,767)

Three) i have more than 20% down payment ( $6k)

Four) most most likely will go with Credit Union Financing and not Dealership Financing.( never done this before, so don’t know procedure)

1) Can/should i negotiate the purchase price?

Two) If i wait til end of lease, the only extra fee i would have to pay is the disposition fee to Toyota, correct?

Because you owe 17k on the vehicle, not zero? He didn’t add 17k to the 59k price, he added it to your trade difference. You got 13k for your trade.

Anytime you save money off the financed amount up front vs. over the life of the loan, it’s a better deal, since very few people these days keep a car for that long.

My credit is pretty good. I’m not truly worried about getting a lower interest rate. I’ve even been pre-approved through the credit union for Two.99% interest rate. However, my question is this – do you think it’s unreasonable to ask them for the TT&L in the price of the car? I’ve also got a $250 coupon through their website. I just want to make sure I’m not being unreasonable. I just figure if they were willing to give it to me for the two thousand fifteen Camry, why wouldn’t they for the two thousand fourteen Camry? Also, when should I tell them I’ve been pre-approved? When they demonstrate me their finances? I know once I tell them, they’re not truly going to negotiate the prices, much less the TT&L.

I downright agree! I work in a Ford F&I office in Canada and I would never work here if it meant being a sleeze ball to maximize profits. I tightly believe that if my clients can trust me that that will take me much further in my career and keep my consious clear! I would rather be someone that people can trust. There are many reasons we suggest extended warranty, maintenance, family and credit protection, ect. and that is for protection. These products have value and they help protect you. Now that is not to say every single one benefits every single person as everyone has different needs and its my job to demonstrate them the features and benefits and for my clients to determine if it does or not.

People make F&I out to be the enemy.. now I get it there are F&I managers that will attempt to take you for every penny they can but that is not all F&I and that is why it is utterly significant that you are educated and ask your questions. Don’t permit yourself to be taken advantage of but don’t shut out the Finance Office in fear of being screwed over.. hear us out.. research.. ask questions.. read fine print. ask about fine print. We are (supposed to be) here to help you and guide you through to the process.. not all of us here are here to take all your money. Yes we are here to make money.. that is no secret.. but isn’t that the job of any business. I do need to make my company money as well as make a paycheck myself but that doesn’t mean I am tearing you off.. As a single mother I care very much about your financial fights, I care that you need to feed your family, I care about you. This is why I suggest you these things.. keep that in mind.

Actually before this election the aspect of a business to make money was demonized and if Clinton would have won very likely outlawed.

While I agree profit is required to operate, anything over 3% is excess.

In the number one scam state in the USA, Florida. We routinely have dealerships fresh and used running 6-12% .

The state attorney’s in most of the counties have investigated dealerships via the state for this tactic.

So this is one of the main reasons all dealerships get this bad rep.

If they want to make it plain demonstrate the consumer every chunk of proprietary information on the car.

Invoice, kickbacks, incentives, end of year quantity sales perks, floor plan gained interest, sponsorship kickbacks, etc..

The excess is because your dealership is driven to make as much profit as possible without being sanctioned by a government bod.

If you can honestly deny then your fervor to make a living has outweighed the good of humanity.

The rebates are 13k

He providing you 13k for your trade.

59k minus 13k is 46k

Ttl takes it back to 49.5k

The rebate takes it down to 48.5k

You have 4k in negative equity.

Total out the door is $52,500

You wrote: “but since their still in business..” Did you go to grade school in US? HOW did you not learn the basics?

Rather than reading the entire text, you determine to concentrate on a spelling mistake.

Deplorable English again:

“that’s why there called loss leaders”

Is this an English class?

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Sorry but this article is ridiculously unrealistic/misinformative in many ways. Here’s why:

1) Dealers prey on misinformed buyers by marking up their cars

Two) Focusing on the monthly payment

– While it is true that focusing on the monthly payment is a tactic, it’s not an unjustified one. If everyone had to pay a phat lump sum for a car, the streets would be empty. People can only afford what they can afford. And sadly most people can slightly afford a $300-500 car payment. Salespeople have to land you on the right cars in order to make the transaction feasible. Only an idiot salesman would showcase a customer a 30K car when they can only afford $300 a month. Also, the idea that the more expensive a car is, the more profit there is for the dealer is false in most cases. There is only so much profit margin in cars, even if there is a difference of 20-60K in price. If you’re selling Lambos or Ferraris, that’s a different story. Also, the so called 20/Four/Ten rule is not realistic. The majority of buyers can’t afford the payments of a four year loan. They have to go six years to get the payment down. Most people are making 4-5K a month. After tax, it’s more like 3K. These buyers have to be at a $300-400 payment to feel convenient. Unless you want to drive a 12K Fiat, you have to extend your loan to get to a manageable monthly payment.

Trio). Imposing finance charge markups

– This is America. Businesses are entitled to make a profit

– Most buyers are underwater on their trade ins. It all leads back to the fact that most people make 4-5K a month and can’t put a big down payment on their car and have a long term loan. When they trade the car in, they are often rolling a little negative equity into their fresh loan. This is just the fact of car buying/selling. A car is not an appreciating asset. It is an investment into bettering your life, at a cost. EVERYONE loses money on their private cars, unless you’re making/selling them. Even then, you could lose a lot of money. Which leads into this .

Five). Leasing is a bad idea

– This is the most laughable contention of this post. Leasing is actually the best option of car buying in today’s market, provided that you don’t drive a lot. Most people are limited to a fifteen mile radius from where they live, being that they work close to home. Unless you drive a ton, leasing is the way to go. The author of the post even said it himself, the payment is generally LOWER than on a long-term loan on a purchase. Why wouldn’t you want a lower payment? And the idea that you “own nothing” at the end of your lease is also laughable. Considering that most people that purchase their car on a long-term loan don’t even get the title to their car until they make the last payment, and they might also end up selling/totaling/trading in their car before the end of the loan is up, theoretically most buyers don’t ever own their cars that are on a purchase. Six years is a long, long time to own one car. Which is the term that most people get. When you lease, you get the car in the best years of its life, you get a solid warranty via the duration of the lease, you get to hop in and out of brand fresh cars every 3-4 years, and you never roll a ton negative equity into a fresh loan (unless you’re an idiot that attempts to get out of their lease too early). On top of that, if you truly love your lease, you can buy it during or at the end of the leasing term. That’s why the banks only give favorable leasing programs to people with above average credit. It’s a privilege to be able to lease. It’s a much more lithe option than a long term purchase loan where you’ll almost always end up underwater on your car unless you put a big down payment on the car when you buy it.

I could keep going but this article is unfairly smearing car dealers . people who provide a crucial service and help the world go around. There is not enough respect for dealerships and banks. Without banks taking large risks on subprime or even prime buyers to get people on the road, the roads would be empty. Without the dealers putting up with the frustration of customers that want to negotiate, the roads would be empty. Selling cars is one of the most difficult/competitive businesses to succeed in. Dealerships are entitled to make a profit and make a living, just like every other business that provides an in request service.

Hi, I am Emerald Cole and I would like to talk about something that has been of fine help to me, my family and my company. Few months ago my company suffered a superb loss that i couldn’t help it, I was at the brink of loosing my house and my company due to bad credit and unpaid loans. I became so desperate that i didn’t know what to do to save the situation, I couldn’t get a loan from banks and other financial institution due to my bad credit. Then i set out to Seek funds online, where I got scammed of $6,300 by two different lenders. Until I read about Anz Jackson Plc. where i got a loan with no stress. I now have my company back in production more than ever and my credit lodge. You can as well reach them at: [email protected] or call/ text: +18437769340, for more Information. All thanks to God almighty and the management of Anz Jackson Plc for making this come through. I am sharing this practice so that everyone who are in need can be a part of it.

Hi, I am Emerald Cole and I would like to talk about something that has been of good help to me, my family and my company. Few months ago my company suffered a good loss that i couldn’t help it, I was at the edge of loosing my house and my company due to bad credit and unpaid loans. I became so desperate that i didn’t know what to do to save the situation, I couldn’t get a loan from banks and other financial institution due to my bad credit. Then i set out to Seek funds online, where I got scammed of $6,300 by two different lenders. Until I read about Anz Jackson Plc. where i got a loan with no stress. I now have my company back in production more than ever and my credit lodge. You can as well reach them at: [email protected] or call/ text: +18437769340, for more Information. All thanks to God almighty and the management of Anz Jackson Plc for making this come through. I am sharing this practice so that everyone who are in need can be a part of it../

Depending on the state you don’t get charged tax if it is fresh car to fresh car.

I come in the dealership ready and ready. And say this is what I am paying. And I beg them to say yes or now so that i can stir on and not waste time. Do yo think you get an reaction !?

In the past air travel ticket purchase was done at your local travel offices spread across the nation. The internet phased out that profession and now people buy airline tickets online.

I can see the “car sales by dealers” process going away also. It is a matter of time. These dealership will be maintenance and repair shops. Which by the way is I think will make them more money.

And only then car shopping will be a positive practice.

Good day to everybody reading this, My name is Alice Monroe, from San Diego United State. I want to thank Mr Logan Bryan who helped me to get a loan. For the past three months, I have been searching for a loan to lodge my debts, everyone I met scammed and took my money until I ultimately met Mr Logan Bryan. He was able to give me a loan of $55,000 US Dollars. He can also help you. He has also helped some other colleagues of mine. If you need any financial help, willingly contact his company through email: [email protected] I believe he can help you. Contact him to get help just as he helped me. He doesn’t know that I am doing this by spreading his goodwill towards me but I feel I should share this with you all to free yourself from scammers, please beware of impersonators and contact the right loan company. below are his words of encouragement to those seeking for a legit and fair loan lender.

8 tricks up the sleeves of auto dealers

8 tricks up your auto dealer’s sleeve

Auto dealers have lots of ways to make the most off of every sale.

Everything from interest rate markups and dealer add-ons to longer and longer loans can drive up the cost of buying a fresh car or truck.

If you’re not careful, you can wind up paying more to buy and finance a fresh car or truck than you indeed need to.

That’s a total waste of money for anyone attempting to build financial security for themselves and their families.

Look out for these eight well-known tricks when you visit the showroom.

Dealer trick 1. Preying on your lack of information.

There’s nothing a salesperson loves more than a clueless car shopper.

You can’t negotiate a fair price for a vehicle when you don’t know what that price should be.

Before taking off for the dealership, go to Edmunds.com and Kelley Blue Book to find the average transaction price for the car or truck you want to buy.

Or add the Edmunds or Kelley app to your smartphone and punch in the model, trim level, equipment packages and other options listed on the window sticker for any car on the lot.

You want to be the brainy shopper who pays a little less than the average transaction price.

Dealer trick Two. Making it all about the monthly payment.

Salespeople often ask potential buyers what’s the thickest monthly payment they can afford.

With that number in mitt, they’ll calculate the most you can possibly spend and still hit that monthly payment by dragging out the loan for as long as possible.

Then you’ll be shown cars and trucks in that price range, which is often higher than what you dreamed to spend, while you’re reassured that a better rail is well within your budget.

Let’s say you came in to buy a compact sedan that cost about $20,000 but let slip that you could afford a payment of $450 a month.

The fatter sticker price, and longer loan, both mean more money for the dealership.

Use the 20/Four/Ten rule to see what you can indeed afford.

Here’s how to put that rule to use before you go car shopping and come up with a purchase price that won’t drain your checking account every month — and then stick to it.

Dealer trick Three. Imposing finance charge markups.

You’ve picked the car you want to buy, and now the finance manager is searching his computer for the best deal on a loan.

But the dealership is not required to tell you the cheapest loan you’ve qualified for and can legally pad the interest rate with a duo percentage points for themselves.

Let’s say the bank or finance company says you’re eligible for a 5% loan, but the finance manager tells you 7%.

On a $22,000 five-year loan, that extra 2% will add an extra $1,277 to your payments.

The lender is in cahoots with the dealer. It collects the extra money, keeps half for itself and sends the other half back to the dealer.

Dealer trick Four. Making deceptive payoff promises.

Let’s say you’re looking to buy a fresh car but still have a balance on your current car loan.

To close the deal, a salesperson will often promise: “We’ll pay off your loan no matter how much you owe.”

Most dealers will make up for that loss by charging more for your fresh rail, suggesting less on your trade-in and imposing a finance charge markup.

But unscrupulous showrooms pay off your old loan, just as they promised, then secretly add that amount to your fresh loan.

To get away with that, they’re counting on you to concentrate on the monthly payment and disregard the total amount you’re financing.

Originally you might have been told that your monthly payment would be around $400, which is what it would be if you financed $20,000 over sixty months at 6%.

When you sit down to sign the papers, the finance manager points to the monthly payment line and, sure enough, it’s $397.

What you don’t see is that the dealer added that $Four,000 payoff to the balance on your loan and financed that $24,000 over 72 months, committing you to pay on that car for an extra year.

Dealer trick Five. Pushing you to lease.

Some salespeople may steer you to leasing because it may get you a fresh vehicle at less than half the monthly payment it would cost to buy.

The problem is, you’ll still be making years of monthly payments — at the end of which you will own nothing.

If you need to lease a car to “afford” it, you most likely can’t afford it in the very first place.

Dealer trick 6. Telling the deal is only good now.

Salespeople love to pressure buyers for quick sales with things like “the deal is only good today.”

It’s a common tactic to prevent you from checking other dealerships or having 2nd thoughts. They’re worried if you leave the lot, you won’t come back.

Chances are you’ll get the same deal if you come back.

The one exception would be around the end of the month when incentives provided by the car companies — rebates and discount loans — often expire.

Click here to find all of the current automaker incentives and exactly how long they last.

You don’t want to make impulse decisions or be pressured on such a big purchase anyway.

Don’t be frightened to sleep on it.

Dealer trick 7. Trotting out the old bait-and-switch.

You see an ad for a fine price on a car you’ve been considering.

Then you get to the showroom and find that’s only for a stripped-down model, or trim level in auto lingo, which no one ever buys.

The salesperson is sympathetic. When was the last time you witnessed a car with crank windows and no air-conditioning?

Over the next hour, he or she shows you better-equipped versions. By the time you eventually see the car you thought the ad was touting, you’re paying $Four,000 more.

So overlook the prices you see in ads.

Most dealers now have their inventories on their websites, permitting you to find the fully tooled model you’re truly interested in buying before leaving home.

Take those VINs (vehicle identification numbers) or stock numbers with you to the showroom.

Not only will you have a more realistic idea of how much the car you want indeed costs, it shows the salesperson you did some homework.

Dealer trick 8. Selling worthless or overpriced dealer add-ons.

Dealers boost their profits by selling all sorts of accessories, from roof racks to premium sound systems.

Take a careful look at the cost. You can usually get the same thing for half price or less at electronics or auto parts stores.

Be especially alert for surprise add-ons salespeople attempt to slip in as you’re wrapping up the deal.

VIN-etching is the latest add-on to avoid. Also, be on the lookout for paint protection, fabric protection, rust-proofing and car alarms.

So how much mark-up do you think dealers have on a MRSP of 60K vehicle? I don’t have an IT stud to help me.

10% on most cars. $40000 truck would have cost the dealer about $36000.

Regarding the price a dealer will accept ,make an suggest, but don’t assume the mark up is astronmically high.

Good advice Andrew.

oh man. This is so epic! I very likely wont ever get a response, but what on earth were you able to dig up on them.

I feel like regardless, if you go into a situation where you have negative equity, the dealer isn’t going to arch over rearwards for the average consumer to accommodate them you know?

I concur, if you have negative equity then you no longer have any power.

However unless your willing to live the Dave Ramsey lifestyle of having no credit score for the remainder of your life, ID caution against the latter tactic.

Negative equity does not influence your power. It may limit your options but it does not influence your power.

if you sell a car someone they pay the sales tax. the have to pay it at the tax office when they get their tag. it is unlawful to absorb sales tax

You do not understand.

If you buy a $30,000, the sales tax is six percent, the amount of sales tax is $1,800.

If you trade and get $15,000, th sales tax is computed on $15,000 ($30,000 – $15,000). The amount of sales tax is $900.

The difference of $900. ($1,800 – $900) is the sales tax advantage of trading.

You still lost, it’s a Hyundai

I got same deal from my used car dlr l, BUT I called CU and confirmed If i sign the contract at 1.9 THEY must accept it once dealer made the contract..but when i went to inquire on closing date dealer rudely says i don’t qualify, he never ran my credit..WTF?? HIS responsibility. I said YOU suggested, you gave a wordy contract and several models with this 1.9 financing are on paper, so YOU go back to CU and get me that rate, he DID. because I can walk. I am putting 42% DOWN. bird in arm, well qualified even tho’ I DO lead the Dave Ramsey “invisible” credit score life..banks want to shill me to Five.5% for having NO debt, own my home clear, cars too, pay off Biz CC monthly..just POOR treatment to debt free people. My treatment may be to get the price down as far as I can, agree to sixty months ( he’s drooling thinking he told me “sure pay it off sooner if you want” he still makes MOST of the interest, I lose hundreds! but a thirty six mo loan is best for me. BUT at absolute lowest everything I just agree to the final price taxes and all, then pull

out my checkbook and pay cash. done.

Andrew, if your willing to assist me with a few questions I’d love to ask you. You could graciously email me at [email protected]. It’s in regards to an f150 platinum purchase I’m attempting to make at a local ford dealership. (Hopefully not yours)

Im pretty sure that when you trade in a car the dealer is providing you the

“cash” to put down on the car your financing. So I’m pretty sure that if your son had $3000 cash to put down on a car vs the dealer providing him $3000 for a trade in on his previous car, all the bank would care about is the $3000. Albeit i have no practice in finances and i could be totally wrong. But i can assure you he will not get in trouble lol abandon being so paranoid.

I wonder if I used a Latino name if I could get a lil bit sweeter deal? Should I attempt Senjor Pepe.

Your misinformed “dealer trick Four” is wrong.

Yes, they do add your payoff back in, however, they gave you money off of your purchase for the value of your trade, pretty much what the dealer can buy one in similar condition for.

The way you explain that, that 25k would be 30k.

What your trade is worth andwhat you owe on it can very often be two different numbers.

Im looking to finance a two thousand sixteen Nissan Rogue S

1) i presently am in a two thousand fourteen Toyota Camry LE lease, with two months left

Two) i got a True-Car quote on the car thats much less than the MSRP (22,767)

Three) i have more than 20% down payment ( $6k)

Four) most most likely will go with Credit Union Financing and not Dealership Financing.( never done this before, so don’t know procedure)

1) Can/should i negotiate the purchase price?

Two) If i wait til end of lease, the only extra fee i would have to pay is the disposition fee to Toyota, correct?

Because you owe 17k on the vehicle, not zero? He didn’t add 17k to the 59k price, he added it to your trade difference. You got 13k for your trade.

Anytime you save money off the financed amount up front vs. over the life of the loan, it’s a better deal, since very few people these days keep a car for that long.

My credit is pretty fine. I’m not indeed worried about getting a lower interest rate. I’ve even been pre-approved through the credit union for Two.99% interest rate. However, my question is this – do you think it’s unreasonable to ask them for the TT&L in the price of the car? I’ve also got a $250 coupon through their website. I just want to make sure I’m not being unreasonable. I just figure if they were willing to give it to me for the two thousand fifteen Camry, why wouldn’t they for the two thousand fourteen Camry? Also, when should I tell them I’ve been pre-approved? When they demonstrate me their finances? I know once I tell them, they’re not truly going to negotiate the prices, much less the TT&L.

Actually before this election the aspect of a business to make money was demonized and if Clinton would have won very likely outlawed.

While I agree profit is required to operate, anything over 3% is excess.

In the number one scam state in the USA, Florida. We routinely have dealerships fresh and used running 6-12% .

The state attorney’s in most of the counties have investigated dealerships across the state for this tactic.

So this is one of the main reasons all dealerships get this bad rep.

If they want to make it ordinary demonstrate the consumer every chunk of proprietary information on the car.

Invoice, kickbacks, incentives, end of year quantity sales perks, floor plan gained interest, sponsorship kickbacks, etc..

The excess is because your dealership is driven to make as much profit as possible without being sanctioned by a government bod.

If you can honestly deny then your fervor to make a living has outweighed the good of humanity.

The rebates are 13k

He providing you 13k for your trade.

59k minus 13k is 46k

Ttl takes it back to 49.5k

The rebate takes it down to 48.5k

You have 4k in negative equity.

Total out the door is $52,500

You wrote: “but since their still in business..” Did you go to grade school in US? HOW did you not learn the basics?

Rather than reading the entire text, you determine to concentrate on a spelling mistake.

Deplorable English again:

“that’s why there called loss leaders”

Is this an English class?

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Autobarn Subaru Countryside il , got me real good. The finance manager told me the Vin-etching was free, I signed, went through my paperwork the same night, I was charged $379 I warn all do not do business with this company, the holder son even promotes it, after complaining, he called me, said he would refund my money, and never did. I have filed complaints and thinking about suing.

Sorry but this article is ridiculously unrealistic/misinformative in many ways. Here’s why:

1) Dealers prey on misinformed buyers by marking up their cars

– This may have been true before the age of the internet. Nowadays, dealers are coerced to price their cars correctly according to market value because most buyers shop online before visiting dealers. Unless the car is priced correctly, dealers won’t get any foot traffic.

Two) Focusing on the monthly payment

– While it is true that focusing on the monthly payment is a tactic, it’s not an unjustified one. If everyone had to pay a large lump sum for a car, the streets would be empty. People can only afford what they can afford. And sadly most people can slightly afford a $300-500 car payment. Salespeople have to land you on the right cars in order to make the transaction feasible. Only an idiot salesman would demonstrate a customer a 30K car when they can only afford $300 a month. Also, the idea that the more expensive a car is, the more profit there is for the dealer is false in most cases. There is only so much profit margin in cars, even if there is a difference of 20-60K in price. If you’re selling Lambos or Ferraris, that’s a different story. Also, the so called 20/Four/Ten rule is not realistic. The majority of buyers can’t afford the payments of a four year loan. They have to go six years to get the payment down. Most people are making 4-5K a month. After tax, it’s more like 3K. These buyers have to be at a $300-400 payment to feel comfy. Unless you want to drive a 12K Fiat, you have to extend your loan to get to a manageable monthly payment.

Three). Imposing finance charge markups

– This is America. Businesses are entitled to make a profit

– Most buyers are underwater on their trade ins. It all leads back to the fact that most people make 4-5K a month and can’t put a big down payment on their car and have a long term loan. When they trade the car in, they are often rolling a little negative equity into their fresh loan. This is just the fact of car buying/selling. A car is not an appreciating asset. It is an investment into bettering your life, at a cost. EVERYONE loses money on their private cars, unless you’re making/selling them. Even then, you could lose a lot of money. Which leads into this .

Five). Leasing is a bad idea

– This is the most laughable contention of this post. Leasing is actually the best option of car buying in today’s market, provided that you don’t drive a lot. Most people are restricted to a fifteen mile radius from where they live, being that they work close to home. Unless you drive a ton, leasing is the way to go. The author of the post even said it himself, the payment is generally LOWER than on a long-term loan on a purchase. Why wouldn’t you want a lower payment? And the idea that you “own nothing” at the end of your lease is also laughable. Considering that most people that purchase their car on a long-term loan don’t even get the title to their car until they make the last payment, and they might also end up selling/totaling/trading in their car before the end of the loan is up, theoretically most buyers don’t ever own their cars that are on a purchase. Six years is a long, long time to own one car. Which is the term that most people get. When you lease, you get the car in the best years of its life, you get a solid warranty via the duration of the lease, you get to hop in and out of brand fresh cars every 3-4 years, and you never roll a ton negative equity into a fresh loan (unless you’re an idiot that attempts to get out of their lease too early). On top of that, if you truly love your lease, you can buy it during or at the end of the leasing term. That’s why the banks only give favorable leasing programs to people with above average credit. It’s a privilege to be able to lease. It’s a much more limber option than a long term purchase loan where you’ll almost always end up underwater on your car unless you put a big down payment on the car when you buy it.

I could keep going but this article is unfairly smearing car dealers . people who provide a crucial service and help the world go around. There is not enough respect for dealerships and banks. Without banks taking gigantic risks on subprime or even prime buyers to get people on the road, the roads would be empty. Without the dealers putting up with the frustration of customers that want to negotiate, the roads would be empty. Selling cars is one of the most difficult/competitive businesses to succeed in. Dealerships are entitled to make a profit and make a living, just like every other business that provides an in request service.

Hi, I am Emerald Cole and I would like to talk about something that has been of excellent help to me, my family and my company. Few months ago my company suffered a excellent loss that i couldn’t help it, I was at the brink of loosing my house and my company due to bad credit and unpaid loans. I became so desperate that i didn’t know what to do to save the situation, I couldn’t get a loan from banks and other financial institution due to my bad credit. Then i set out to Seek funds online, where I got scammed of $6,300 by two different lenders. Until I read about Anz Jackson Plc. where i got a loan with no stress. I now have my company back in production more than ever and my credit lodge. You can as well reach them at: [email protected] or call/ text: +18437769340, for more Information. All thanks to God almighty and the management of Anz Jackson Plc for making this come through. I am sharing this practice so that everyone who are in need can be a part of it.

Hi, I am Emerald Cole and I would like to talk about something that has been of good help to me, my family and my company. Few months ago my company suffered a superb loss that i couldn’t help it, I was at the brink of loosing my house and my company due to bad credit and unpaid loans. I became so desperate that i didn’t know what to do to save the situation, I couldn’t get a loan from banks and other financial institution due to my bad credit. Then i set out to Seek funds online, where I got scammed of $6,300 by two different lenders. Until I read about Anz Jackson Plc. where i got a loan with no stress. I now have my company back in production more than ever and my credit lodge. You can as well reach them at: [email protected] or call/ text: +18437769340, for more Information. All thanks to God almighty and the management of Anz Jackson Plc for making this come through. I am sharing this practice so that everyone who are in need can be a part of it../

Depending on the state you don’t get charged tax if it is fresh car to fresh car.

I come in the dealership ready and ready. And say this is what I am paying. And I beg them to say yes or now so that i can budge on and not waste time. Do yo think you get an reaction !?

In the past air travel ticket purchase was done at your local travel offices spread across the nation. The internet phased out that profession and now people buy airline tickets online.

I can see the “car sales by dealers” process going away also. It is a matter of time. These dealership will be maintenance and repair shops. Which by the way is I think will make them more money.

And only then car shopping will be a positive practice.

Good day to everybody reading this, My name is Alice Monroe, from San Diego United State. I want to thank Mr Logan Bryan who helped me to get a loan. For the past three months, I have been searching for a loan to lodge my debts, everyone I met scammed and took my money until I ultimately met Mr Logan Bryan. He was able to give me a loan of $55,000 US Dollars. He can also help you. He has also helped some other colleagues of mine. If you need any financial help, willingly contact his company through email: [email protected] I believe he can help you. Contact him to get help just as he helped me. He doesn’t know that I am doing this by spreading his goodwill towards me but I feel I should share this with you all to free yourself from scammers, please beware of impersonators and contact the right loan company. below are his words of encouragement to those seeking for a legit and fair loan lender.

Dealer originally suggested me a Four.90% Interest Rate (the kiosk in their lobby advertised a 0% Rate, but of course the fine print was a Credit Score of seven hundred forty or better) and $6,600 for a trade-in. The Blue Book said $7,400 to $8,500, and my car only has Legal,500 miles on it, but is seven years old. Anyhow the Dealer calls me the next day and said he’ll up the Trade-in to $7,000 and give a 1.9% Interest Rate. Lesson learned: Walk out after the very first meeting, because its a game of “Who blinks very first”, and joyfully the Dealer did.

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articles

8 tricks up the sleeves of auto dealers

8 tricks up your auto dealer’s sleeve

Look out for these eight well-known tricks when you visit the showroom.

Dealer trick 1. Preying on your lack of information.

Dealer trick Two. Making it all about the monthly payment.

Dealer trick Trio. Imposing finance charge markups.

Dealer trick Four. Making deceptive payoff promises.

Dealer trick Five. Pushing you to lease.

Dealer trick 6. Telling the deal is only good now.

Dealer trick 7. Trotting out the old bait-and-switch.

Dealer trick 8. Selling worthless or overpriced dealer add-ons.

8 tricks up your auto dealer’s sleeve

Look out for these eight well-known tricks when you visit the showroom.

Dealer trick 1. Preying on your lack of information.

Dealer trick Two. Making it all about the monthly payment.

Dealer trick Three. Imposing finance charge markups.

Dealer trick Four. Making deceptive payoff promises.

Dealer trick Five. Pushing you to lease.

Dealer trick 6. Telling the deal is only good now.

Dealer trick 7. Trotting out the old bait-and-switch.

Dealer trick 8. Selling worthless or overpriced dealer add-ons.

8 tricks up your auto dealer’s sleeve

Look out for these eight well-known tricks when you visit the showroom.

Dealer trick 1. Preying on your lack of information.

Dealer trick Two. Making it all about the monthly payment.

Dealer trick Three. Imposing finance charge markups.

Dealer trick Four. Making deceptive payoff promises.

Dealer trick Five. Pushing you to lease.

Dealer trick 6. Telling the deal is only good now.

Dealer trick 7. Trotting out the old bait-and-switch.

Dealer trick 8. Selling worthless or overpriced dealer add-ons.

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